Monday, April 30, 2012

When in Rome! (Spring Break Part 1)


                I’ll admit. This post is a little overdue. In fairness, I when I got back from Italy around two weeks ago, I came home to an extremely full week at school – 30 hours of class, three papers, and a group presentation.  But finally, I am posting about my super cool (I’m serious. It was freezing…) spring break.
                Around three weeks ago, we had our spring break here.  It started out very quiet.  Everyone left on Friday and it felt like Toulouse and the residence that I live in were strangely empty.  I spent Friday evening in town with my two lovely girlfriends from Denmark and Ireland.  We did a little shopping and then had dinner at an Indian restaurant.  I spent the rest of the evening and most of the next day hanging out at home.  I actually really enjoyed being lazy by myself for a little while. 
Our Lovely Group at a Cafe in Rome
                Don’t worry though.  I didn’t spend the whole break lounging around on my couch.  Sunday morning, I woke up bright and early and caught a train to Bordeaux with two friends.  After arriving in first class (student discount rail cards really pay off!), we caught the bus to the airport where we met another friend and departed for Rome!  We flew round trip on Ryan air for only fifty euro.  It was an interesting experience flying with Ryan air for the first time. I had been warned that it was not the most hospitable airline.  While my friend humorously noted that we were being “shuffled around like monkeys” as the flight attendants rather brusquely demanded over the intercom that we continue moving to the back of the plane when we boarded, the flight was not that bad.  It obviously wasn’t ritzy, but it was cheap and in two hours I was in Rome. 
Trevi Fountain
                  One thing that Ryan air is famous for is its strict luggage restrictions.  You are only allowed one carry-on bag (yes ladies, no purses) that fits rather stringent weight and size requirements.  One of my friend’s bags was over the maximum of ten kilograms and resorted to wearing something like 5 pullovers to get his bag under the weight limit.  In order to avoid the hassle and extra expense of checking a bag, I brought only one backpack for the entire week.  This required me to bring only lightweight sundresses and rompers as they didn’t weigh much or take up much space.  I didn’t expect this to be an issue. I mean, it’s Italy, right? Always warm and sunny.  Wrong.  Very wrong. It was in the 50’s the entire week.  Not exactly sundress weather… Nevertheless, traveling with one backpack makes getting around much easier. 
Make a Wish!
                Our first night in Rome we freshened up after a long day of traveling and headed out to find some food.  Before we found food, we found the enchanting Trevi Fountain.  It was lovely.  After waiting for a spot near the fountain to open, we threw coins in the fountain and each made a wish.  After our wishes and about a thousand pictures, we found dinner nearby, and beautiful week of pasta and pizza began.  Afterward, we stopped for gelato and spent the rest of the evening in the hotel. 
The next day we got up early and headed out for an ambitious day of sightseeing.  We started at the Roman forum.  It was so cool walking around and seeing it! My only complaint is that there wasn’t more information about the ruins unless you were on a guided tour.  We still had a great time and had a relative idea of what we were looking at most of the time.  We stopped at one point to read about the ancient art of making glass and its evolution over time.  As we were reading, I noted to the group “I am such a business major... As I am reading this, all I can think about is product diffusion…” to which my engineering friend replied “All I can think about is the chemical components of the glass.” It was a lovely nerdy moment. 
In the Coliseum 
Gelato at Piazza di Venezia
After the forum, we proceed to Palatine Hill which was somewhat of an extension of the Forum.  It was absolutely beautiful with views of the Coliseum and the rest of the city.  It was also beautifully landscaped among the fascinating ruins.  We continued on to the Coliseum after.  The line to get in was enormous and very cold as we were in the shade for most of the wait.  When we finally got inside, we all ran straight into the sunlight to warm up.  The coliseum was incredible.  I really enjoyed the visit although some of the history involved with the ancient sporting venue kind of grossed me out.
After the coliseum we went to the magnificent Piazza di Venezia to meet our friend from Milan and of course get gelato.  After that, we tried to go to the Pantheon, but it was closed for observation of the Easter holiday.  We then went down the main shopping street, Via del Corso.  Even though we didn’t buy anything, it was a fantastic afternoon shopping and drooling over the beautiful designer brands. We ended at the Spanish steps and then returned to the hotel. 
Via del Corso
Drooling Over Dior
That evening we went to dinner at a restaurant recommended to us by our concierge.  The pizza was fantastic! Afterward we went into town to get a taste of Roman nightlife.  Our receptionist had told us where to go when we had arrived the day before pointing out the best piazzas for dinner, nightlife, and men.  We thought the idea of a “Piazza di Men” was hilarious so we went to check it out.  When we arrived, the square was dead, and the only men we could find were statues. 
St. Peter's Basilica
The next day we went across town to St. Peter’s Basilica and the Vatican.  When we arrived the line to get into the Basilica wrapped all the way around the square.  Surprisingly, however, we didn’t have to wait that long to get in.  St. Peter’s was unreal and probably the most beautiful church I have ever seen.  Afterwards we stopped for lunch at a nearby café before heading to the Vatican Museum. 
One of the Many Art Galleries
on the Way to the Sistine Chapel
The Vatican was beautiful, and the museum was immense.  I have never seen so much fantastic art in my life.  Frescos, paintings, tapestries, sculptures.  There was so much that it was a little overwhelming.  We explored the first art gallery and then started our journey to see the Sistine Chapel.  At first we were all fascinated by everything, reading everything we could set our eyes on (that was in English of course..).  I’m generally the type of person that can spend hours in a museum and loves reading every plaque, brochure, and information board there is, but after about the tenth gallery, we all began to wear down.  That day, all alternate routes to the Sistine Chapel were closed and we had to take the longest route available which wound through literally gallery after gallery.  Each gallery was filled from floor to ceiling of magnificent art, so much so that it became overwhelming and difficult to take it all in.  By the time we got to the Sistine Chapel, we were all exhausted.  It was however pretty sensational.  All of the famous Michelangelo frescos were exquisite. 
The Spanish Steps
Best Gelato in Rome
(Cinnamon, Oreo, and
Dark Chocolate!)
After the Vatican, we took a break, did a little shopping, and got some gelato before heading back to the hotel to rest.  That evening we had a great dinner finished with tiramisu and met up with some new friends we met in Rome.  We hung out that night with them in their amazing apartment and rooftop terrace overlooking the Vatican and the river.  It was such a fun evening with good friends!
On our last day in Rome, it started to rain.  We went to the Pantheon and then had the best gelato in Rome at a place suggested to us by our new friends.  It was amazing! I had cinnamon, dark chocolate, and Oreo!  Afterwards, we walked to the Spanish steps.  We were busy taking photos when a torrential downpour began.  Totally caught off guard, we ran for the nearest Metro stop.  That evening we said goodbye to our Danish friend as she went to meet some friends in Paris for the rest of the week, and the rest of us boarded a train for Naples.       

When All Else Fails, Eat! (Spring Break Part 2)


Rainy Day in Naples

           The train to Naples was much different than the French trains that I have become accustomed to. It seemed to be much more similar to a metro than a train.  The train was overbooked and there weren’t enough seats.  A lot of people had to stand most of the way.  We stayed on the train long enough to find seats but they were again more like the plastic seats in the metro.  The tickets were much cheaper, however, than in France.   
The Best Pizza in the World
When we arrived in Naples, we went straight to the hostel.  It was my first time staying in an actual hostel as opposed to a low-cost hotel.  We stayed in a dormitory style room with bunk beds and a shared bathroom.  It almost reminded me of living in the dorms back home in Fayetteville.  There were four other people staying in our room who it turned out were all American girls studying abroad in Prague.  I talked with one of the girls who went to Michigan State, and she actually knew someone that went to the University of Arkansas!
Hiking on Mount Vesuvius.
(In a Sundress)
Naples is known as the place where pizza was invented, and consequently it is home to the “best pizza in the world” due to its proximity to extremely fertile land where the ingredients are grown.  We were eager to try the famous pizza after settling into our rooms.  We went to one of the renowned, family owned pizzerias and were blown away.  Naples is rightfully the pizza capital of the world. 
Beautiful View
The next day we got up early and headed to Mount Vesuvius after breakfast at the hostel.  We took a bus out of the city, up most of the mountain.  When we stopped, someone came on to the bus and informed us in about four different languages that there was a strike of the park workers and we would have to take an alternate hiking route to the top of the mountain that would take two extra hours.  I wasn’t too bothered by this since I was excited for the hike anyway.  When we got off the bus, it was freezing.  I looked totally out of place in my little sundress and paper thin sweater amongst everyone in big coats and scarves.  Even though I was totally inappropriately dressed, the hike was fantastic.  Between the sensational views of the mountains, coast, and city and the interesting volcanic terrain, it was an unforgettable experience.  At the top, we got to look inside the crater.  It was pretty low-key, but the steam rising from the ground inside was pretty cool to see. 
Inside the Crater
Strike.
After Mount Vesuvius, we got some pizza.  Imagine that.  We stopped at a little café recommended by trip advisor.  There, we got to try pizza with Bufala Mozzarella.  It was amazing! After lunch, we went to the Pompeii excavation site.  It was probably one of my favorite things we saw on the trip.  The place was absolutely enormous and divided into actual neighborhoods.  We were barely even able to see half of the site before the park closed that evening.  It was amazing how in-tact the whole city was.  Plus, the scenery was beautiful with gorgeous landscaping and brilliant views of Vesuvius.  We even got to see an ancient bakery.  Apparently, they used some of the same technologies that we still use today like brick ovens.  If I am ever in the area again, I will definitely be going back to Pompeii.
      

"These fish better be grateful!"
When we left Pompeii, we headed back to the train station to catch the train back to Naples.  We arrived at about 7:15 and then expected to catch the 7:30 train.  When that train simply didn’t come, we expected to catch the 8:00 train.  After that train was also a no show, we waited for the 8:30 train which ended up being extremely late.  We ended up waiting like 2 hours for the train back to the city.  By the time we got back, it was around 10, and we were starving.  We headed to the port to find some good seafood.  We went to a restaurant were we could get a fried seafood medley.  I have no idea what was in it, but it was delicious. 
Petting a Starfish 
The next day, it rained all day.  Not just a light, misty rain. More like a torrential downpour.  As the rain was not very conducive to our plans to visit Sorrento, we decided to spend the morning relaxing at the hostel.  That afternoon we went to the aquarium.  It was small, but it was something to do inside.  By the time we got there, we were all soaked through.  My friend aptly noted that “those fish better be grateful that we came to see them!” Afterwards we walked by the sea to another seafood restaurant where I got calamari and shrimp served on fried spaghetti. 
Seafood!
The next day, it rained again.  We left the hotel and headed to another famous Napoli pizzeria where we waited 45 minutes in the cold rain to get in.  The place was kind of a hole in the wall joint where there were only about 4 things on the menu.  We each ordered pizza with double mozzarella.  It was well worth the wait and probably the best pizza I have ever had.  Julia Roberts apparently felt the same way as photos of her visiting the quaint pizzeria adorned the walls. 
Favorite Pizzeria!
After that, we caught a train back to Rome where we spent the night in a hostel near the airport and caught our flight back to France the next morning.  Despite the cold and the rain, it was an absolutely unforgettable spring break!

Saturday, April 7, 2012

It's Always Sunny in Montpellier

Lunch in the park
Open air market
Last weekend I took a quick trip to Montpellier with three other friends.  The weekend really couldn’t have been more perfect.  We left Saturday morning by train and arrived about two hours later in the charming little coastal city.  Our hotel was outside of the city center but accessible by the city’s tram system which was new and very nice.  We said the whole weekend that the one day tram passes were the best value things we bought.  We paid 3.80 euro each for 24 hours of unlimited tram usage.  That’s a bargain when a one way ticket cost 1.40 euro and we were staying so far away from the city.

Roman aqueduct
Arc de Triomphe
The park
Pretty overlook in the park 
After settling into our hotel, we set out to see the sights; however, in Montpellier, we soon discovered, there are not very many sights to see, aside from the majestic Arc de Triomphe.  What Montpellier lacks in tourist sites, it overcompensates for in liveliness and character.  The city was beautiful and charming and full of life.  I’m sure it didn’t hurt that the weather was beautiful – sunny and not a cloud in sight!  After a picnic in a park for lunch, we spent the afternoon strolling through open air markets, breathtakingly beautiful parks, the lively Place de la Comedie, and main boulevards and tiny side streets.  On our way, we stopped in lots of little local shops, everything from vintage to dresses to furniture.  We also saw a street show going on and a group of people sitting in hand woven nests.  One of the favorite parts of the day was stopping at the park just behind the Arc de Triomphe, which sits on a hill overlooking the rest of the city.  It was absolutely lovely. 
View from the top of the hill
Les Palmiers!
That evening we returned to our hotel and had dinner at a steakhouse near there.  The restaurant seemed to try to emulate some of the American chain restaurants like Logan’s Roadhouse, Cheddar’s, or Chili’s, and it was very amusing to experience the French version of that.  They even put a lot of random “American” references on the menu. 
                After dinner we went back into the city and saw the Arc de Triomphe at night.  It was just as beautiful all lit up. 
Arc de Triompe at night
Place de la Comedie at night
                The next day we got up and took the tram to the bus station to go to a nearby beach, Palavas-les-Flots.  When we got there, there was an enormous crowd waiting for the bus.  When the bus arrived, it was chaos.  Everyone was pushing and shoving to be able to make it onto the bus.  They even made an announcement that women and children were to be allowed on first.  The disorder was unreal.  We didn’t make it on that bus and waited for the next one.  This time we were ready.  We pushed our way on first and were able to find a seat even.  Twenty minutes later, we arrived at the beach.  We spent the day lounging in the sun and snacking on a picnic that we had brought with us.  The boys bought a volleyball and we created our own court in the sand.  After three very competitive matches, my friend and I won the “tournament.”  It was so much fun. 
Some of the coolest Irish people I know!
Palavas-les-Flots
                Later that afternoon, my other friend and I ventured off in search of a bathroom.  We had trouble finding a restroom, but no trouble at all finding a perfect shopping street.  We came back an hour later, shopping bags in hand.  I ended up buying three dresses over the course of the entire weekend.  Once we got back and met the boys, went back to Montpellier and took an evening train home to Toulouse.
                It’s now a week later and officially spring break.  Three friends and I are leaving early tomorrow morning for Bordeaux where we will catch a flight to Rome, Italy.  The round trip flight only cost 50 euro! We will spend three days in Rome and then take the train to Naples where we will visit Pompeii, Mount Vesuvius, and the Almafi Coast.  I think it is safe to say that this spring break may be the coolest ever!